Sunshine in America?

Up on the mountain, the mornings and nights are brisks like Western autumns. It's a wonderful change coming from Guinea where there is no cold season. I wake up in the morning, sit outside on my daybed, sip coffee and gaze at the small mountain range of Guinea.

The temperature change is not the only thing that is different up on the mountain. Each day, I realize how wonderful I had it in Guinea. First of all, my host family here is much poorer than my family in Guinea. Family Nakhisso can't afford rice, so we eat smaller grains like couscous and something related to grain paste that takes like tar milked with leaf and peanut sauce. Needless to say, after three bites, "Mm-bala-lou-bah" (I'm full). Family Nakhisso all live together in this compound made up of seven or eight huts. The older brother and his two wives and children live in one; the grandmothers each have their own and my family has four. My father "Baba" is married to two women who each have their huts with their children. Baba has his own room as well. I know this because I had to sleep in it while they were finishing repairing my hut. He mostly sleeps outside with the baby cow, sheep and chickens.

I consider my honeymoon stage with Africa to be over. Seeing death firsthand and holding malnourished babies doesn't upset me anymore. However, the shock of how much poorer my family is here blows my mind. Each night, I sit around the fire with my father and his two wives, Adama and Humba, and sip tea. Since I live on top of a mountain and they live on the bottom it is a little far to go to my house and use the bathroom so I asked to use their lattrine. They handed me the water kettle (sorry, no toilet paper exists here) and pointed me towards the peanut fields behind the huts. There must be a list 15 people in that compound who "take care of business" in this one field. My family, along with most of my village does not have a means of a bathroom; only a big field and a water kettle.

My two host moms, or "ingas" are really wonderful. Humba, the second wife, is making her children teach her French so she tries really hard to talk to me in the French she knows, which makes me love her even more. Adama, the first wife is pregnant. I asked her how many months she was and she told me she didn't know. She pulled up her shirt and asked me if I knew. I'd say she is about 7or 8 months and I know for sure that child will be born on the dirt floor of their hut.

Around this fire, we've had some interesting conversations. I am the first white person they have ever met. I tell them about all the wonders of America and we compare and contrast the different ways of life. Trust me, it's not hard to marvel them. They asked me if their was sunshine in America and were quite surprised when I said yes, plenty of it. I'm interested to see how this realationship will follow. They will either love me as a volunteer or see me as a means of outside income.

My second day in my village I started a project at the school. Two days before I came in I finished drawing the world map on the wall. I will start painting this week and hopefully finish before vacation. The principal is really excited. He told the geography it was a resource. Plus, it was a nice way to work and talk to people. Did I mention on occasion I have monkeys who come by to observe the work. They are all over the place, especially in the peanut fields (aka the bathroom),

Although I am only 4km from the border to Guinea, some things are different. I can't communicate well with the other people of my village yet because they speak Pulaar. That obstacle, I'll cross, Inshallah, in time. Somedays, even though I haven't been here long, I do miss Guinea and wonder what my favorite people are up to. I just look to those hills and it makes me feel better.

Thanksgiving was a huge success. We killled a turkey, a duck and a chicken. Tomorrow is the Muslim fete, Tabaski, so I will head to my site to get dressed up and partake in the excitement. Details later.

Until next time,

Stay sunny!

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